From Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel to Comme des Garcons... We Still Think About These Shows
by Laila Musleh
In honor of New York Fashion Week commencing in only a month, 29 days and 12 hours specifically (We're counting down by the minute!), we reflected back and curated a list of our favorite fashion shows from the past decade.
The runway has evolved into a dynamic platform where fashion intersects with art, culture and politics. As designers blur the lines between fantasy and realities., they’ve expanded understanding of what fashion can be, inviting the audience to explore new perspectives and reimagine the possibilities of style.
This past decade in fashion is marked with unforgettable runway shows that pushed boundaries, sparked conversations and set new standards for creativity and innovation in the industry. It’s clear that the most memorable fashion shows were not mere presentations of clothing, but an immersive experience that told stories, challenged norms and captivated audiences worldwide. From Karl Lagerfeld’s transformation of the Grand Palais for Chanel to Alessandro Michele’s reimagining of Gucci, designers used the runway as canvas for their artistic visions and comments on contemporary issues.
The impact of these shows shifted the way fashion is perceived – no longer confined to aesthetics, it’s become a medium for storytelling and social commentary.
Alexander Mcqueen Spring/Summer 2012 Show
Inspired by the wonders of marine life, Sarah Burton explored the mysteries of oceanic life through the intricate pleating, draping and architecture. Barnacle-patterned jacquard matelasse, oyster-printed silk chiffon, black leather applique reminiscent of oil slicks, and pleated organza in copper, silver and gold mirrored the colors and textures of the ocean. Raised waists formed ruffles that mimicked the fluid motion of jellyfish, while trapeze dresses alluded to the flow of human swimming. Who needs the beach when Sarah Burton brings it to us?
Louis Vuitton Spring/ Summer 2013 Show
Checkmate! Marc Jacobs turned chess into a game of style. In the Palais Royal, the show's set featured towering columns arranged in a grid, creating a yellow and white checkered runway. As models descended onto the runway, they featured a range of silhouettes, from structured coats and tailored skirts to sleek dresses and boxy tops, all adorned with checkerboard lines, maintaining the show’s geometric theme.
Chanel Fall/ Winter 2014 Show
Karl Lagerfeld transformed the runway into a replica of a supermarket, completed with shelves stocked with thousands of everyday items, humorously rebranded with Chanel language – Handkerchiefs renamed as “Les Chagrins de Gabrielle,” a chainsaw draped with a Chanel chain and most satirically, a garbage bag relabeled as “Sad Plus Belle.” The clothing mirrored the multifaceted nature of the supermarket shelves, featuring a range of silhouettes, patterns, textures and colors. The feeling of stepping into a grocery store, with its overwhelming array of products, is captured by this collection– there's so much to take in! Models walked down the runway in ragged workout wear, structured silhouettes, smock dresses and velvet jumpsuits.
Lagerfeld's witty approach to this collection commented on how fashion’s become a playground for consumerism, where items are desired through the lens of status and branding, much like items we find in our local supermarket or boutique.
Anniesa Hasibuan 2016 Show at NYFW
Anniesa Hasibuan was the first Indonesian designer to showcase a collection at New York Fashion Week, where she was the first to bring a full line featuring hijabs. This collection was a tribute to her hometown Jakarta and Islam; it included silky suits, kimonos, tunics and gowns, all adorned with differing patterns, silhouettes and textures.
Comme Des Garcons Fall/ Winter 2017 Show
Rei Kawakubo’s shows are not for the weak minded. Comme des Garcons’ collections challenge spectators to engage their minds to explore the deeper meanings and interpretations behind the clothing.
In this collection, models were adorned in large sculptural curves made of white wadding. Other models appeared in exaggerated parodies of the female body. Kawakubo explained that this collection was a reflection on fashion, its processes and future trajectory. Did this collection foreshadow into the future?
Gucci Fall/ Winter 2018 Show
Alessando Michele presented a theatrical collection, creating an eerie and undeniably artistic experience, where the line between reality and illusion was blurred. Models walked the runway carrying lifelike replicas of their heads, and creatures including baby dragons and chameleons.
Inspired by 1980’s streetwear and Renaissance art, the collection included vibrant colors, textures and patterns with the infamous Gucci logo seamlessly integrated into the clothing; it featured oversized coats, tailored suits and flowing dresses, each adorned with embroidery and detailed sequins.