Bibu Mohapatra Fall 2025: “His Most Intimate Collection Yet”

by Laila Musleh

“You can change your hair color, but you can’t change where you come from,” Bibhu Mohapatra reflects, speaking on the vision behind this season’s collection. 

As models strutted the runway, a symphony of color, movement and drapery took over the Pierre Hotel. Bibhu Mohapatra’s Fall 2025 collection was a reflection of his mind, where his childhood memories sit, the presence of his loved ones linger and his connection to his homeland took form in the fabrics and silhouettes. 

“This is not the time to shy away from one’s culture,” Mohapatra said. “It’s so important to be loud and clear about where we come from.”. 

In partnership with Tanishq and the Austin Advisory Group, the show transported guests to Odisha. From the clothing to the warm, earthy scent of sandalwood filling the air, every detail invited them to his homeland. This was Mohapatra’s vision– to truly understand the beauty of his memories and home, guests mustn’t simply see it, but experience it. 

The show opened with a crisp white dress with a black outline, cascading down the skirt. The white alludes to the purity of Mohapatra’s youth, where his mind was impressionable to the world and influences around him. The next look brought a dramatic contrast, a deep purple dress with a flowing skirt. Its rich, moody hue reflected the way memories are often tinted by time. The introduction of these two pieces acted as a flashback to young Mohapatra, guests were ready to join him on a collective recollection of his childhood.

Shades of pink and purple washed over the runway, embodying the femininity that defined Mohapatra’s upbringing. Soft blush tones emphasized the tenderness of the women in his life, while deep fuchsias and magentas captured their strength. The color palette extends to hints of white, black, gold and burnt orange. Eah hue was a tribute to a piece of his past. 

Silhouettes were masterfully constructed with the sweeping skirts of gowns, high necklines and structured blazers draped over unstructured dresses. Mohapatra is not one to walk away from the opportunity to bring regality and the avant-garde to the runway. 

Fluidity was at the heart of the collection, seen in the gentle drape of fabrics, the bend of the skirts and the way gowns’ trains glided across the floor. Each movement mirrored the flow of his memories, shifting and resurfacing like waves.

Layering played a defining role, whether it was through the draping of a fur coat over a white button-down blouse and skirt, or a unstructured black blouse worn asymmetrically, lying comfortably over a flowing white skirt, paired with sheer red tights, slightly visible from under the skirt and kneehigh red boots. 

The collection carried an architectural quality with the defined shoulders of tailored blazers juxtaposing against unstructured dresses– Balancing their strength with the softness of the fluid fabrics. Voluminous fur coats commanded guests attention, and high-neck silhouettes emphasized a sense of modesty

The silhouettes told a story of the women in his life, but the prints and embroideries seamlessly honored the connection that lies between his love for his mother and his heritage. Brushstroke patterns on the dresses were inspired by his mother’s saris. Motifs of rice grains and delicate leaves, embroidered in floral arrangements, recalled the organic landscape of Odisha and the rice flour rangolis. 

The layering and cultural symbolism was manifested through the adornment of jewelry. Tanishq’s gold, diamonds and colored gemstones intertwined, adding depth to the heritage of the collection. Rani Haars sat elegantly over the fabrics, while Jhumkas, with their bell shaped silhouettes, swayed from the ears. Diamond necklaces, accented with colored gemstones, lent regality. These pieces were an extension to Mohapatra’s vision, acting as heirlooms, odes to the cultural and artistic gifts given to him by his loved ones. 

From his Spring 2025 collection, where Mohapatra explores the complexities and juxtapositions of the human experience, to his Fall 2025 show, his exploration evolved into an artistic reflection of his own experience. This collection paid tribute to the moments and influences that nurtured his craft and the roots that continue to inspire his vision on the runway