Bibhu Mohapatra Paid Homage to the Human Experience
by Laila Musleh
“This new collection has taken on the shine of that quiet kind of poetry, too—resonating with the elemental forces of love, remembrance, and grief, while also channeling the primal essence of life’s never-ending raw beauty.” - Bibhu Mohapatra.
As the lights dimmed, Patti Smith’s words echoed throughout the Pierre Hotel, captivating the audience. Just then, the music struck with models descending down the runway. Bibhu Mohapatra’s Spring 2025 collection unfolded like a story, intricately woven with the layers of the human experience. Each piece echoed Mohapatra’s personal journey of understanding existence, transformation, and the delicate balance between joy and sorrow.
Ethereal touches of colored gemstones and diamonds adorned the pieces, supported with colors inspired by Pantone’s new Dualities color palette, which drew inspiration from the natural elements of the stars, moon, sun and the sea; using the very elements that give life to human kind, the collection underscored Mohapatra’s exploration of the human existence. Every look felt like a dive into the emotional and organic forces shaping human life.
The show opened with the interplay of two counterparts – a structured multi-colored blazer, paired with cargo-style pants, completed with a matching patterned tie. The juxtaposition of the tailored blazer with the relaxed functionality of cargo pants embodied the duality of the human experience, where joy and sorrow coexist in harmony.
As the show progressed, the runway was painted with earthy tone, rich shades of orange, pinks, deep yellows, bringing into a sun-soaked vibe – with hints of gold alluding to a fading sunset. Contrasting with these warmer hues were whites and blacks, creating a perfect balance of light and shadow. Blue found its way into the palette, adding tranquility into the kaleidoscope of emotions and colors of the palette. The colors were an interplay between warm and cool, and light and dark.
The silhouettes were nothing short of masterful, blending structure and fluidity, subtly alluding to the complexities of life itself. Structured blazers stood out, with defined shoulders and varied lengths. Meanwhile, dresses featured overlapping layered skirts, cascading from the waist. Sheer gowns and skirts, cinched tightly at the waist, served as counterparts to the collection’s more structured pieces. Drama played a central role throughout, with scarves integrated into pieces and gowns featuring hanging trains, adding a regal, almost avant-garde touch.
The color palette was brought to life through an intentional use of fabrics, from sheer materials to heavier, more structured textiles. Leather appeared in cargo pants, long dresses cinched at the waist with sleek leather belts, skirts, cropped blazers and trench coats.
Mohapatra debuted the label’s indigo denim collection with a series of wide legged pants, a denim jacket and an ankle-length skirt. The standout piece was a denim dress, cinched tightly at the waist with a matching belt.
At the heart of these contrasting hues, textures and silhouettes, lies a commonality: the organic, ever-changing nature of the world and the complex emotions defining the human experience. This collection balances strength and vulnerability, order and chaos and the beauty offered by contrasting experiences of human life.